Mexico City is vast. You could spend years exploring its neighbourhoods, getting acquainted with its attractions, wandering through its markets and meeting its charming people and you still wouldn’t have seen half of it. But my god, there has never been a city so worth exploring.
And fortunately for you, there is a taco stand worth stopping at on almost every corner to fuel you through your adventures. In fact, in Mexico City there is such an abundance of worthy restaurants and eateries that it is easy to feel quite overwhelmed with choice.
If you are planning a visit and you wish to eat in some of Mexico City’s finest culinary establishments, I would suggest staying in an area called Roma Norte. It’s where you’ll find many of the best places to eat. Ubers are cheap - you can get to the historic centre of Mexico City (known as Centro) for around $150, which is about £7.50.
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I was very lucky to receive some excellent recommendations for places to eat during my recent trip, which I shall share with you, along with a few places I found on the way.
Really cheap
Los Cocuyos
Los Cocuyos was supposedly ‘baptised’ as the number one taqueria by Anthony Bourdain on one of his many trips to Mexico City. I took many recommendations from the late, great Tony on this trip and he never led me astray. Los Cocuyos is a simple taqueria in Centro that does excellent tacos and nothing else. Just choose your filling - the more adventurous the better!
Pasteleria Ideal
I have never been so overwhelmed by choice in a bakery. An ideal place to grab a cheap breakfast or lunch, or to load up on freshly baked carbs for a day trip to nearby ancient city of Teotihuacan.
El Huequito
El Huequito is one of the best places to eat tacos ‘al pastor’, which is marinated pork shaved off a trompo - kebab style. Delicious. Even better when served with a wedge of sweet pineapple.
Still quite cheap
Taqueria Orinoco
There’s always a queue outside Taqueria Orinoco. You’d be a fool to let it put you off. Get the chicharonnes (pork crackling elevated to god tier) taco, or ideally three. Heaven on earth. Hopefully you’ll still have room for their dessert taco too, which was topped with dulce de leche, banana ice cream and walnuts on our visit.
El Hidalguense
A recommendation for breakfast from my dear friend Mark Chapman, of the fine establishment that is COR. As Mark knows, I’m partial to a lasagne for breakfast. It’s a fine line between madness and genius. He assured me that a visit to El Hidalguense was better than a breakfast lasagne and by god he was right. A fabulous hustle-bustle of a restaurant in which they serve tacos bursting with tender goat. Sorry, what were you saying about your crunchy nut?
Less cheap (but still very reasonable by English standards)
Pizzeria della Madonna
If you get sick of tacos (I know, but it is possible) head to Pizzeria della Madonna or their sister restaurant Kill Bill Sushi for a palette cleanse. In both you’ll find a great atmosphere, generous hospitality and great food.
Kill Bill Sushi
See above. Kill Bill Sushi is basically a large cupboard, so make sure you book.
La Guerrerense
I travelled all the way to Baja in search of excellent fish tacos, but the reality is that the best fish tacos are to be found in Mexico City. In La Guerrerense, to be specific. A recommendation from Peter Sanchez-Iglesias (of Paco Tapas, Casamia), who said it was the best tostada in the city. That guy sure knows a thing or two about food. If there is one thing you have to eat in Mexico City - it is a tostada from La Guerrerense.
Maximo Bistro
We saved Maximo Bistro for the last night of our trip and what a treat it was. I loved walking past the kitchen on our way in and seeing the chefs at work. Given that we’d burned through our budget faster than a fire on turbo island, we opted not to have the tasting menu (though it looks excellent) and ordered a la carte. The portions are very generous for a fine dining restaurant but there is no compromise on quality.
If we’d had more time and money
Panaderia Rosetta
We didn’t make it to Panaderia Rosetta but it was recommended by so many people that I am quite confident in passing it on. Another bakery where you can purportedly pick up many a Mexican pastry.
Masala Y Maiz
The concept of Masala Y Maiz intrigued me - Indian meets East African meets Mexican. Alas, they did not have a table we could book during the time we were in Mexico City. Despite the many recommendations for it, fate decreed that it was not meant to be. No matter - another good reason to return.
Contramar
Another Peter Sanchez-Iglesias recommendation but one that I sadly didn’t make it to. Contramar is a seafood restaurant. The google description reads: ‘Soft-shell crab & spicy fish tacos in an airy dining room with an expansive plant-filled patio.’ I’d make the 13 hour plane journey for a soft-shell crab taco any day.
Limosneros
This is rapidly turning into a list of restaurants I didn’t actually visit. Oops. Limosneros was recommended by almost everyone who sent suggestions on Twitter and it did look nice, if a little fancy, when I walked past. When I return to Mexico City as a millionaire, which will likely be in the next six months, I shall definitely visit.
Drinks
Licoreria Limantour
Admittedly this recommendation is not where to eat, but where to drink. Specifically where to drink cocktails. Even more specifically, where to drink cocktails before you stumble 50 metres across the road to Maximo Bistro. Look at that, I'm basically planning your itinerary for you now. Oh and did I mention that Licoreria Limantour is the seventh best bar in the world?
Handshake Speakeasy
Ha - you thought the seventh best bar in the world was good? Try this - the THIRD best. In the whole world. I failed to book us a table - I know, I know - so they wouldn’t let us in, but that is why I am passing on this lesson to you, dear reader. I am walking so that you may run. Now run along and book your plane ticket.
All words and photos by Meg Houghton-Gilmour
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